Decoding the Complexity: Why Pairing Wine with Asian Cuisine Is Notoriously Tricky
Ask any sommelier to list their top wine pairing challenges, and chances are Asian cuisine will be close to the top. Why? Because “Asian cuisine” is not one cuisine—it’s dozens, if not hundreds, spanning from the fermented depths of Korean kimchi to the pepper-laced heat of Sichuan, the umami-rich broths of Japan, and the delicate balance of Thai sweet-sour-spicy flavours.
Unlike the Euro-centric gastronomies where wine has evolved in tandem with regional plates, much of Asia’s culinary tradition developed without grape-based beverages. Beer, tea, rice wine (like sake or soju), and fermented condiments took precedence. That means we don’t have “classic” pairings to rely on. But therein lies the challenge—and the opportunity.
The Building Blocks of Flavour in Asian Dishes
Successful pairing starts with understanding the dominant flavour profiles. In Asian cuisines, these often include:
- Umami: From soy sauce, miso, dried mushrooms, bonito flakes, oyster sauce.
- Sugar & Acidity: Thai sweet chili glaze, rice vinegar, pickled vegetables, tamarind paste.
- Fat & Oil: Coconut milk, stir-fried meats, tempura, sesame oil.
- Heat: Chili oil, bird’s eye chili, wasabi, Sichuan pepper.
- Fermentation & Funk: Kimchi, fish sauce, shrimp paste, XO sauce.
Each of these elements influences what the wine needs to deliver. Spicy food, for instance, will clash with high-alcohol reds but marry beautifully with slightly sweet whites. Dishes packed with umami often make tannins taste more metallic. The trick lies in balance, not contrast alone.
Chardonnay in Bangkok: Grappling with Coconut, Lemongrass & Ginger
Let’s start with a grape many wine lovers know well: Chardonnay. But here’s the rub—pairing a big, oaky Burgundy with a green curry is a disaster. Coconut milk, lime juice, galangal, and basil simply overwhelm the finesse of a Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet.
But a leaner, unoaked Chardonnay (think Chablis or cool-climate Margaret River) does something remarkable. Its crisp acidity and stone fruit can cut through the richness of Thai green curry or tom kha soup without neutralising the herbal freshness. I’ve paired a Domaine Vocoret Chablis with grilled prawn skewers marinated in lemongrass and palm sugar, and the interplay was electric: citrus pinged against char, while the minerality mirrored the saltiness of fish sauce.
Sushi & Sancerre: A Case for Subtlety
Raw fish and wine are uneasy bedfellows—especially when wasabi and soy sauce enter the mix. But high-acid, mineral whites like Sancerre or dry Riesling find a home here. The slight smokiness of flint in Loire Sauvignon complements the toasted nori in maki rolls, while citrus-driven freshness matches pickled ginger’s bite.
For fattier cuts like toro or salmon belly, I’ve had success with Champagne—particularly Blanc de Blancs. The bubbles offer palate-cleansing precision, while the autolytic notes add a bready depth reminiscent of tamago. Avoid tannic reds, which exaggerate the fishiness and destroy the balance.
Sichuan Fireworks: Riesling, Gewürztraminer, or Nothing
Sichuan cuisine is a test of fortitude—for both palate and beverage. You’re navigating chili heat, numbing Sichuan peppercorns, vinegar brightness, and occasionally sweetness (in dishes like kung pao chicken).
This is not where your Bordeaux shines. Instead, embrace aromatics. Off-dry Riesling (Kabinett or Spätlese level from Mosel or Rheingau) is sensational here. Its residual sugar mollifies chili burn, the acidity cuts through oil, and the lime-and-petrol character complements soy, ginger, and garlic. Try an Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Kabinett with dan dan noodles—it’s revelatory.
Alternatively, Gewürztraminer offers rose, lychee, and spice that can tango with Hot Pot’s wild complexity. Just ensure it’s not too flabby; you’ll want tension in the wine to resist the broth’s assertiveness.
Dim Sum and Blanc de Noirs: Contrast and Compliment
Cantonese dim sum offers a medley of textures and temperatures—steamed dumplings, crispy-skinned pork, silky tofu, taro fritters. One wine can’t match all of these—but Champagne comes close.
Blanc de Noirs styles (100% Pinot Noir or Meunier) have enough fruit weight and depth to match bolder items (check out roast duck bao), but still sparkle with the delicate ha gow or siu mai. Franciacorta or English sparkling wine—particularly Sussex bottlings like Ridgeview or Gusbourne—can match this profile with aplomb. A personal favourite? Hambledon Classic Cuvée with shrimp and chive dumplings dipped in chili soy—it’s the vinous equivalent of dim sum’s own harmony of contrasts.
The Umami Bomb of Korea: Can Red Wine Ever Work?
Korean cuisine poses a particularly tough challenge. Between the acid bite of kimchi, the searing gochujang, and the deep umami of grilled bulgogi, many wines feel out of place. But certain reds can rise to the occasion—if chosen carefully.
Low-tannin, fruity reds with high acidity work best. Consider Gamay from Morgon or Fleurie: its cherry-fruited freshness dances around the soy-marinated beef, while its light body doesn’t clash with ferments. Dolcetto or even a chilled Barbera can also excel with banchan feasts, especially when meats are in play.
Still, one of the more surprising pairings I’ve witnessed involved a chilled Beaujolais-Villages served next to kimchi pancakes (kimchi-jeon). Against all odds, the lactic tang and chili spice found a friend in the fruit-forward wine—proof that lateral thinking sometimes beats logic.
Tikka Masala & Torrontés: When Spice Meets Perfume
Indian food—no monolith itself—delivers richly spiced sauces, smoky tandoors, creamy textures, and herbal hits. That makes the country’s classic dishes difficult mates for dry wines.
Aromatic whites like Torrontés from Argentina offer a remarkable solution. Its heady floral notes (jasmine, orange blossom) and underlying freshness can stand up to both heat and cream. For butter chicken or paneer tikka, it’s a dream. Similarly, Viognier (especially from the Northern Rhône or Languedoc) can partner dishes like lamb rogan josh or aloo gobi beautifully—provided the wine retains enough acidity to refresh the palate.
Rosés, especially from Provence or Rioja, also prove versatile. Their fruitiness buffers spice, while their dryness prevents palate fatigue. A López de Heredia Rosado, if you can get your hands on one, might just be your secret weapon for curry night.
Tsingtao vs Wine: When Beer Is Still the Champion
I’d be remiss not to mention that with many Asian dishes—especially street food staples or ultra-fiery plates—beer still wins. A crisp lager like Tsingtao or Sapporo cools, cleanses, and never competes. Some foods aren’t made for fermentation complexity, and that’s perfectly fine.
But don’t let that dissuade you from experimentation. The sommelier’s job—professional or amateur—isn’t to sit still. It’s to test assumptions until new certitudes emerge. Today, we know that an off-dry Riesling belongs on the Sichuan table. Tomorrow, you might discover that aged Chenin Blanc works with Korean barbecue.
Each pairing is a hypothesis, each sip an experiment. With Asian cuisines, the margin for error is thin—but the rewards, when you get it right, are unforgettable.
