The Rediscovery of Amphora Winemaking
Among the many trends shaping the contemporary wine landscape, the resurgence of amphora winemaking is one of the most intriguing. Rooted in practices dating back over 6,000 years, this ancient technique is finding new appeal among forward-thinking vintners seeking authenticity, purity, and textural complexity. But what’s driving this revival, and how does clay compete with stainless steel or oak in today’s cellar logic?
Back to the Future: What Is Amphora Winemaking?
Amphorae—large, egg-shaped clay vessels—were once the default fermentation and storage vessel across ancient Georgia, Greece, and the Roman Empire. Buried underground or partially buried, their porous surface regulates temperature and enables slow oxygen interaction, creating an environment conducive to spontaneous fermentation and extended maceration.
These vessels, often without internal lining, allow for a controlled micro-oxygenation reminiscent of oak, but without imparting the flavour signatures commonly associated with wood (vanilla, toast, spice). As such, amphorae offer a tool for oenologists aiming to foreground varietal expression and terroir—the holy grail of natural and minimal-intervention viticulture.
A Practical Case: Georgia’s Qvevris and Italian Anfore
In Georgia, qvevri winemaking has never ceased. Designated as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, the process involves fermenting and aging the wine with skin contact for months, even in whites, resulting in amber wines with remarkable tannic structure and a compelling oxidative character. Georgian wines such as those from Pheasant’s Tears or Iago’s Wine are textbook examples of amphora’s aging potential and stylistic impact.
Meanwhile, in Italy, the use of “anfore” is gaining traction in regions like Tuscany, Sicily, and Abruzzo. Winemakers like Elisabetta Foradori in Trentino and COS in Sicily have pioneered modern amphora vinification, combining ancient vessels with biodynamic philosophies. Foradori’s use of Spanish-made tinajas (a cousin of the amphora) for her Teroldego grapes has redefined perceptions of Alpine reds—textured, precise, and graceful.
The Sensory Signature of Amphora Wines
If you’ve ever wondered what amphora adds to a wine that no other vessel quite replicates, consider its impact on:
- Texture: The clay provides a silkier, denser mouthfeel. Whites often take on tannic edges akin to lighter reds. Reds become more finessed, less extracted.
- Aromatic purity: Ironically, these porous containers help preserve elusive aromatic notes—herbaceous undertones, saline tension, floral lift—by allowing slow oxidative development without overpowering the varietal’s identity.
- Balance: Oxidative aging, moderated by oxygen seeping through the clay, can temper high acidity or angular structures, resulting in a more harmonised palette.
I recently blind tasted a 2019 Ribolla Gialla from Friuli, fermented in amphora and aged six months on skins. The nose was a mélange of bruised apple, bergamot, and savory honeycomb. The palate? Structured and bone-dry, yet with an orange pekoe tea-like linearity. Unforgettable. Could stainless steel have achieved that? Doubtful.
Why Now? Factors Behind the Comeback
The renaissance of amphora isn’t just nostalgic infatuation—it’s aligned with larger movements in the wine world:
- Natural and low-intervention winemaking: Amphora suits winemakers opting out of additives, new oak, or heavy manipulation. Its neutrality makes it the ideal vessel for honest winemaking.
- Climate change: Elevated temperatures can lead to overripe fruit, high alcohol, and reductive characters in stainless steel. Amphora’s thermal stability buffers extreme ferments and preserves freshness.
- Consumer curiosity: Modern drinkers are thirsty for stories, not just Swarte scores. Wines made in amphora carry a narrative—of craftsmanship, historical continuity, and stylistic uniqueness.
As a former sommelier, I’ve observed amphora wines never fail to spark table-side discussions. Guests often lean forward, squinting at the label, asking: “Amph…what?”—and just like that, they’re invested. It’s rare for a fermentation vessel to have this kind of charisma.
Challenges and Limitations
Amphora winemaking is not without its constraints. Let’s demystify some of the practical realities:
- Fragility: Clay is notoriously brittle, cumbersome to handle, and expensive to replace. One misstep with a forklift, and you’ve lost both vessel and precious vintage.
- Cleaning complexity: Non-lined amphorae can harbour microbial life. Sanitation requires extreme diligence, sunlight drying, or sulphur candles—methods not always compatible with scaled production.
- Volume limitations: Most amphorae range between 500-1500 litres. Larger volumes may compromise structural integrity. This limits their use to small-batch, artisanal production.
That said, some producers are blending amphora-aged lots with stainless steel or barriques to balance character with consistency. It’s not a strict either-or—rather, amphora becomes one brush on the winemaker’s palette.
Modern Adaptations and Innovations
Contemporary amphora doesn’t necessarily mean a roman replica dug into limestone. Modern iterations are as diverse as the wines they ferment:
- Spanish Tinajas: Made primarily in Villarrobledo, these unlined clay vessels are slightly less porous than Georgian qvevris and offer more control during fermentation.
- Cementamphora hybrids: Some producers use concrete with clay linings or coatings to mimic amphora’s benefits while avoiding its fragility.
- Above-ground placements: While ancient qvevris were buried for temperature control, contemporary cellars rely on ambient cooling systems, freeing amphorae from subterranean constraints.
Even luxury estates in Bordeaux and Napa are experimenting—Smith Haut Lafitte, for instance, integrates clay eggs into its red winemaking regime to soften tannin profiles.
Pairing Amphora Wines with Food
The unique compositional attributes of amphora-aged wines beg thoughtful pairings:
- Amphora whites (with skin contact): Try them with Moroccan tagines, Indian biryanis, or aged cheeses with washed rinds. Their savoury spine handles spice and richness effortlessly.
- Clay-fermented reds: With fewer aggressive tannins, they’re a dream with game birds, grilled vegetables, or lean cuts of beef served rare. Think Nebbiolo without the bite.
Their versatility lies not in neutrality, like stainless steel wines, but in confidence without brashness. Amphora wines are understated leaders—resonant, not loud.
Final Thoughts: Substance Over Trend
What began as a whisper from Georgia’s foothills is now echoing through the hills of Sicily, the Loire, Macon, and even Sonoma. Amphora winemaking isn’t a novelty—it’s a recalibration. It invites us to evaluate not only what vessels can achieve, but what they signify: tactility over technology, maturation over manipulation, and above all, fidelity to place.
As ever, the value lies not in replication, but in thoughtful adaptation. The best amphora wines today don’t try to mimic the past—they harness it to project something new. And in a market awash with sameness, that’s worth more than a passing glance.
